Chrysler 300 Hurst 1970

[dodgefred]

JEsavais bien que ça ressemblai à çà;)

[zoot]

En parlant de TVA, c'est normal qu'elle soit passé à 5,5 %, c'est quand même une vraie rareté, 498 exemplaires plus 1 seul cabriolet( voire 485 coupés selon les sources ). Elle peut justifier son statut de collector. Bravo pour ce bel achat, j'espère avoir un jour l'occasion de la voir en vrai, c'est quand même un sacré morceau. ;)

[darkdog]

et c'est normale aussi puisque tout les véhicules de 30 ans et plus en état d’origine passe à 5.5% depuis début janvier.....infos prisent hier chez mon transitaire ils ont passé 26 autos depuis le début du mois ..........:pouet: :pouet:

[olds]

J'ai la meme voiture... la commande au plancher Hurst c'etait une option...

[Xavi3r]

oui !

j'ai vu une photo ou la tienne est passé en carrosserie d'ailleurs.

tu sais quel type de pont il y a dessus ? c'est un 8 3/4 ok ,mais quel type ? 489 / 741 / 742 ? on doit sûrement avoir le même.
Je dois commander un kit de réparation car le roulement est HS ainsi que le joint.

[nairolf45]

Quels sont les différences entre 741-742 et 489 svp?

[Xavi3r]

j'ai trouvé cela sur un forum :

http://ccc.informe.com/forum/engine-tra ... t1915.html

8 ¾
The only Banjo axle produced by Chrysler.
Introduced 1957…DOA by 1974
Last year in A bodies: 1972
Last year in E bodies: 1974

This is "the” axle to run on the street. A plethora of gear ratio's exist OEM and aftermarket (except for 741), easy centre section swapping (run the economy centre section during the week and swap in the big gear centre for drag racing), great strength. It looks like a Ford 9" with the centre section being retained in the housing by a circle of nuts on studs in FRONT of the differential.

YEARS

1957 - 1964
This 8 ¾ has its brakes attached to the axle shaft by a large nut. I don't know anything about them but to avoid them. Casting # 1820657

1965 - 1974
This 8 ¾ has flanged axle shafts as used on later A bodies.
A body Info: 55.6" width (flange to flange) / 51.4" housing flange to flange / 43.02" spring seat centre to centre

8 3/4 CENTRE SECTIONS
The 8 ¾ came with several different centre sections as listed below some are stronger than others:
657 1957 - 1964
741 1965 - 1974
742 1957 - 1968
489 1969 - 1974
****NOTE all centre sections are interchangeable into any 8 ¾ housing. So if you have a weak 741 centre section in your A body 8 ¾ you can swap it for a 742 or 489 with no problems.


8 3/4 CASTING NUMBERS
1820657 AKA "657"
The 657 is as equally weak as the 741 described below but nowhere near as common. It is a 1 3/8" pinion shaft unit like the 741 and was discontinued in 1964. This was the year when Chrysler dropped the tapered axle shafts that had the brake assembly attached to the axle with a keyway and large nut. If you see this rear end....RUN! However, the pumpkin can be swapped into a later housing or rear end.

2070741 AKA "741" :
The 741 is the weakest 8 ¾ centre section you can buy. Commonly found in V8 A bodies before 1973. (Rumour: It is the only available axle in 1972 Darts / Valients….matter of fact is where I got my rear end from and it had a 741 in it but I swapped it for a 489 for $20.00 more)
The 741, besides being the weakest of the 8 ¾, has a limited amount of OEM and aftermarket bearings, gears, and other parts available. This unit when found in an A body rear is usually loaded with highway gears (However, I found a sure-grip 3.91 741 centre section in a 1967 cuda 340 "S" 4 speed car) and will have to be replaced with a stronger unit if you want to race. Best advice…try to swap it for a 742 or 489 section before you take that A body rear from the yard. If that is not possible it makes a nice cruising / backup unit.
A lot of people on the web boards hack on the 741 that it is too weak but most agree that it is hard to break it in a mild street application. So if you have a nice strong small block street car you will be hard pressed to bust this pumpkin. Sure grips found in these rears can be swapped into other housings as long as you take the carrier bearing and races with you (as they are different). SG's themselves are all the same except for the clutch and cone type units.
Info: 1 3/8 Pinion

2070742 AKA "742":
A real good section with lots of bearing/gears/parts available. Biggest gear ratio available 5.57. It doesn't use a crush sleeve like the later 489 so a lot of racers prefer it. If you find one with an original sure grip it is almost 99% odds in favour it is a sweet clutch type. More on this later.
Info: 1 ¾ Pinion

2881489 AKA "489":
The strongest of the 8 ¾ units. As with the 742 there are tons of replacement parts available as well as gear ratios. Gear ratios available beyond 3.23 are: 3.55, 3.91, 4.10, 4.30, 4.57, 4.86, 5.13 and 5.38. Almost all original sure grips, except 1969, found in this housing are the non rebuildable and less desirable cone type. Also with suregrips there is a bit of noise on the net as which are better. The clutch type are rebuildable and the best for racing. The cone type are not rebuildable but are perfectly acceptable for a street car. They last at least 40 - 50K with means many years of abuse with a weekend driver. If you need a SG for a car, can't find a clutch type to rebuild, are not a racer go buy a new one for $300 - 350. I would not buy a used cone SG though.
Info: 1 7/8 Pinion

NOTE: All cases, pinions, bearings, gears are not interchangeable between the three units but the sure grip units themselves are. There are two types of sure grips:

Dana Power Lok, 1962 - 1969 which are rebuildable (clutch packs)
Borg-Warner Spin Resistant, Late 1969 - 1974 which are not rebuildable (cone type)

An easy ticket to a cheap sure grip is to find a clutch unit in an orphan 741 case and remove it with the bearings (pressed on) and races and swap it into your better carrier (742 or 489). Most people don't think they are swappable so whine to the seller that it is a 741 SG and negotiate hard. Once the unit is out remove the old 741 ring gear, install yours from your better pumpkin, install a new clutch pack (rebuildable remember? Most are worn out after 30 years. Clutch kits are available from Mopar or Mancini and others) and then swap the whole mess it into your 742 or 489 case. The ring gear bolts are left hand threaded so remember this and don't break any as you may need them. Also if you go this route double check the gear mesh pattern to make sure it is set up ok.

Sure grips can be found in performance cars, trucks, vans, etc. so you have to look for them. There are two types of suregrips, cone and clutch. The clutch type, Dana "Power - Lok" came in the earlier 657, 741 and 742 carriers from 62 - 69 and is rebuildable. The MP rebuild kit for this type of SG is PN# P4529484 and it consists of new clutch disks and plates.
The later cone type suregrip commonly found in 489 carriers was produced by Auburn Gear before Borg Warner bought them out. It is called the Borg Warner "Spin - Resistant". It has a bunch of springs you can see looking in from the side of it.

Well, I need to clarify something concerning cone type SG's and their lack of being able to be rebuilt. They can be and there was an article in High Performance MOPAR Magazine, May 1997, PGS 28-30 where they did it. They removed 0.080" off each cone in a lathe and installed a 727 high clutch piston return spring (one each) into the center of each of the four original springs. The article is fairly easy to follow with good pictures.

Interesting note in the 1998 MP catalogue they show a picture of an open differential and under it they call it a Sure-Grip. Big mistake there. The PN# P4876118 is their SG replacement (cone type) and it lists for $625.00, whew! You can purchase a new SG from Mancini Racing for about $350.00 and it is the same thing as Auburn makes them all. If you decide to go this route you will need to purchase new carrier bearings and set the rear end up again.

[Xavi3r]

j'ai ma réponse, c'est un 489. ;)

[nairolf45]

Merci pour le document

[Xavi3r]

dodgefred écrit:

peut etre le meme que sur les nouillorquere;) je regarde dans monstock quand je rentre :P

alors tu as pu regarder ? :lol:

[dodgefred]

desolé suis pas encore rentré :(

[Xavi3r]

petite new, on a reçu ça pour refaire le pont :




:lol:

[nono540]

Xavi3r écrit:

petite new, on a reçu ça pour refaire le pont

C'est le kit de roulements et autres quincaillerie pour refaire le nez de pont, as tu déjà refait un nez de pont ?, c'est pas simple du tout, y'a un tas de truc à faire très précisément, sans quoi, ton couple conique va durer 3 minutes :(

[phil64]

C'est vrai, la calage couronne / pignon est essentiel et ça se fait au "bleu". Il faut absolument trouver quelqu'un qui maîtrise ce genre de réglage.

[Xavi3r]

très honnêtement non je n'ai jamais fait cela.
J'ai demandé à plusieurs personnes si c'était faisable la réponse fut la même que les vôtres. ( ça dpit être vraiment dur car c'est exactement les même réponses ! )
Le garagiste chez qui je fais les trucs les plus durs n'est pas dispo avant un bon moment et comme la voiture doit bouger, on va se lancer avec un pote. On pensait changer que je joint de nez de pont car il fuit à mort et y'a plus d'huile dans le pont mais on a vu qu'un roulement était cassé.

Je suis bien sûr preneur de tous les petits trucs à savoir avant de commencer.
Très honnêtement ,on pense faire comme tous ceux qui on jamais fait une opération avant, prendre des mesures, et essayer de tout remettre exactement pareil après. j’espère que ça servira à qqchose de procéder comme cela, non ?

on a bien vu qu'il faut d'abord faire un test avec un produit qui marque pour vérifier le calage.